In this blog post, I will show you, how I replaced the o rings of my Nikonos V. Besides replacing the internal o rings, I’ll also provide the dimensions of the user-replaceable o rings.
First, remove the batteries.Four screws secure the electronics‘ cover.Use some flat tool to hold against the screws, when unscrewing the LED exposure indicator cable.One screw inside the film chamber …… and two screws …… at the take-up spool secure the inner part.Remove the retainer clamp with a spudger or your fingernails.The removed retainer clamp.A reminder, of how to reassemble.We find our first o ring here under the ISO dial. I call the position ISO dial bottom.There is another clamp on top of the ISO dial, underneath the winder. You can actually take it out more easily later after the rewind crank has been removed from the ISO dial.There is a small hollow bar/pipe on the bottom of the rewind crank.You can pull it out using pliers. I didn’t have smaller ones handy, but would recommend a finder tool. What made it a lot easier, was holding both ends of the rewind crank, even the lower end, while pulling the pipe out, it reduced friction enormously.On top of the ISO dial, underneath the clamp and washer, we find our second o-ring. Don’t be afraid, the next o-rings will be much easier to access.Unscrew the time setting dial (set it to M90 before). You might have to remove a small cap before, but many Cameras do not have them anymore anyway.Just pull out the disc and the advance crank.Here, at the rewind crank, we find our third o ring …… and number four:The shutter speed dial o-ring.
Now we can lift out the inner part
If you are experienced in soldering you can desolder those four flash sync cables.This would make it easier to work on the next steps, but it is not mandatory.Another easy task is the door latch.Here we find o-ring number five.Now we come to the shutter release, another quite easy task.You can pull out the release lever from the inside …… while pushing from the outside.Et voila: our sixth o-ring.
For regreasing the inner moving parts I used Molykote High Vacuum Grease. The supplier claims, that it supports the o rings‘ sealing ability – I don’t know if this is really possible, but someone recommended it for underwater photo housings.
I did not replace the o-ring around the frame counter and the seals on the front and the back of the viewfinder. Those are very static and therefore should stay watertight rather long. If they become problematic I will add a replacement solution here. Or maybe someone reading this can share some information in the comments, I would be happy to update the article.
Please be aware, that I only confirmed these sizes through a first bath tube test, professional pressure testing is still pending.
Fix old cameras on YouTube (link will be added later) gave me some numbers for the o ring sizes and this is how I assigned them to my camera:
Hi Ant,
thank you for pointing on the error on the Cheat Sheet – of course it should be 112.
About the water testing: yes I did this with positive results so far, but the problem is, that minor leaks might be unnoticed, so that is why I am still seeking for someone being able to do a pressure chamber test.
During such a dry test, the camera will be put under increased pressure inside a dry environment. It will then be submerged under water and the pressure will be lowered.
Now, if there would be a leaking, the higher pressure would have build up inside the body as well. So, while the surrounding pressure lowers, the air inside the leaking camera would expand and would escape through the same leak it came in, making it easy to locate the leaking by bubbles escaping off the body without letting water enter the leaking camera.
Thank you for your comment, it helps spreading the information and keeping our cameras alive.
Hello!
First of all, thank you for this detailed guide and all the work and time put into it. Much appreciated!
I just wanted to point out that the Cheat Sheet is showing a different Main Door O-Ring Dimensions that is different than the document (193 vs 112).
Also, did you end up doing any water tests in the end?
Thanks!
Hi Ant,
thank you for pointing on the error on the Cheat Sheet – of course it should be 112.
About the water testing: yes I did this with positive results so far, but the problem is, that minor leaks might be unnoticed, so that is why I am still seeking for someone being able to do a pressure chamber test.
During such a dry test, the camera will be put under increased pressure inside a dry environment. It will then be submerged under water and the pressure will be lowered.
Now, if there would be a leaking, the higher pressure would have build up inside the body as well. So, while the surrounding pressure lowers, the air inside the leaking camera would expand and would escape through the same leak it came in, making it easy to locate the leaking by bubbles escaping off the body without letting water enter the leaking camera.
Thank you for your comment, it helps spreading the information and keeping our cameras alive.