Konica C35 rangefinder adjustment and repair manual – step by step

After I’ve repaired the metering I realized that the rangefinder has problems too. The rangefinder only reacted on settings in the close range. When I kept on turning the lens barrel into the farer range (about 3 meters till infinity) the split image just stopped moving.

First I tried to adjust the rangefinder through the screw that is accessible through a little hole under the back door which is covered by a screw that has to be taken out first.

If you open tha film chaber door you find a little screw right below the viewfinder. This has to be screwed out completely to access a tiny screw that adjusts the rangefinder.
If you open the film chaber door you find a little screw right below the viewfinder. This has to be screwed out completely to access a tiny screw that adjusts the rangefinder.
Konica c35 repair rangefinder 11
Here you can see the adjustment screw. This screw adjusts the complete range from close to far in a whole. Later I will show you which screw adjusts the relation between far and close – it is very unlikely that this has to be adjusted.

If this does not help the top cover of the camera has to be removed – don’t be afraid, it is easier than you might think. You can read this article where I described how to remove the top cover.

After you removed the top cover come back here to see how to continue.

 

Remove the three green marked screws, now the whole rangefinder assembly can be removed from the camera.
Loosen the three green marked screws, now the whole rangefinder assembly can be removed from the camera.

Konica c35 repair rangefinder 1

On the bottom of the rangefinder unit I removed this large headed screw because the brass arm was a bit stuck. It did not move back completely when the black lever was pushed and released afterwards. I put a tiny drop of lube and retightened the screw.

On the bottom of the rangefinder unit I removed this large headed screw because the brass arm was a bit stuck. It did not move back completely when the black lever was pushed and released afterwards.
I put a tiny drop of lube and retightened the screw.
I've also put a tiny drop of lube between
I’ve also put a tiny drop of lube under the brass lever. There is a little outtake where the lube can be placed at. In this picture you also see the adjustment screw that can be accessed through the film compartment described in the very beginning of this article. It is in the top right corner of this picture. It is also possible to adjust the rangefinder now.

But still the split image got stuck so I went on looking what could be fixed.

Konica c35 repair rangefinder 7 marks
If you take off the black paper cover from the rangefinder unit – it is hold in place by two very tiny screws – you will find this red marked screw. Don’t touch this screw, it adjusts the relation between close and far focusing. This should normaly be no problem.
The green marked screw adjusts the vertical alignment of the rangefinder. On the Konica C35 automatic it can be accesses through the hot shoe without disassembling the top cover of the camera.
Anyway if the rangefinder is stuck like mine it may help to add a tiny drop of lube to this screw.
When I loosened this screw the vertical alignment wen’t completely off and it could not be readjuster by tightening the screw. I pushed with some force on the base besides the screw and the alignment was spot on again.
I fixed the screw with loctite.

I hope this description can help you a bit and would be very happy about a comment.

Konica C35 rangefinder Camera repair – light meter soldering manual

A few months ago I acquired this little Konica C35 rangefinder on a flea market for less than five Euros. It got many traces from intensive use but there were no signs of serious damage so I decided to take it home.

There still was a film in the camera, I will develop it some day. But unfortunately the light meter did not work. Who knows this camera is aware that there is no possibility to manually set aperture and shutter speed. So I had to repair the wiring of the battery compartment which included some soldering – which I never really did before.

The following pictures describe the process of resoldering the light meter and the replacement of the whole cable that leads from the battery compartment to the light meter located on top of the lens inside the lens barrel.

Konica c35 repair light meter 9
At first just loosen the three screws on the bottom.
After this screw off the two screws that hold the battery compartment in place.
After this screw off the two screws that hold the battery compartment in place.
Probably the black cable is already loose. If the cable inside looks okay you can just solder it. If you are lucky the job is done now. Just replace the compartment and the bottom cover and check if the needle responds to the light. There is no need to transport the film advance crank, the needle responds also if the shutter is not cocked.
Probably the black cable is already loose. If the cable inside looks okay you can just solder it. If you are lucky the job is done now. Just replace the compartment and the bottom cover and check if the needle responds to the light.
There is no need to transport the film advance crank, the needle responds also if the shutter is not cocked.
First step: Take of the rewind knob. This is very easily done by grabbing the inner part that connects with the film spool and turning the rewind crank counterclockwise.
If you are not that lucky you have to get deeper into the insides since the cable that goes to the light sensor needs to be completely replaced. But no problem, it is really simple to get this done. First take of the rewind knob. This is very easily done by grabbing the inner part that connects with the film spool and turning the rewind crank counterclockwise.
The next step is to unfasten the little screw that was hidden under the rewind crank.
The next step is to unfasten the little screw that was hidden under the rewind crank.
The next step is to loosen the film transport lever. The Screw that holds it in place can easily loosened with a rubber that is pressed on its surface and turned counterclockwise. Alternatively some tool like pliers or a pair of tweezers could be used but then there is the risk to scratch the screws surface. The picture shows all parts of the lever in the order in which they are put together. The bottom part again is screwed down, this can easily be detached owing pliers also there is not the risk to scratch it.
The next step is to loosen the film transport lever. The Screw that holds it in place can easily loosened with a rubber that is pressed on its surface and turned counterclockwise. Alternatively some tool like pliers or a pair of tweezers could be used but then there is the risk to scratch the screws surface (you can see how bad it was done on mine …).
The picture shows all parts of the lever in the order in which they are put together. The bottom part again is screwed down, this can easily be detached with pliers.
Here you can see how the bottom part of the advance lever gets loosened.
Here you can see how the bottom part of the advance lever gets loosened.
Konica c35 repair light meter 10
Now the top case can be lifted. Take care for the cable that connects to the hot shoe and pc socket. Maybe this one also needs to be resoldered.
Konica c35 repair light meter 6
Because we need to peal off the vinyl leatherette the self timer lever has to be taken off. The vinyl will afterwards stick again without adding new glue.
After peeling off the vinyl there are four black screws that hold the lens plate in place. Do not alter the lens settings after taking it off since it connects to a gear inside the camera and it gets difficult to find the proper setting again – believe me I did this mistake and it cots me half an hour to get everything even again.
After peeling off the vinyl there are four black screws that hold the lens plate in place. Do not alter the lens settings after taking it off since it connects to a gear inside the camera and it gets difficult to find the proper setting again – believe me I did this mistake and it cost me half an hour to get everything even again.
The lens plate is also connected with two cables. On of these gets replaced, the other one goes to the meter needle in the viewfinder.
The lens plate is also connected with two cables. On of these gets replaced, the other one goes to the meter needle in the viewfinder. Also you can see the small pin. Take it out before it falls out and gets lost. When you replace it the sharpened side goes into the plate first.
Now the ring from the top of the lens has to be unscrewed. I did it with tough bend tweezers – better is a spanner tool.
Now the ring from the top of the lens has to be unscrewed. I did it with tough bend tweezers – better is a spanner tool.

 

Here you can see the loose ring that holds the top part of the lens assembly in place.
Here you can see the loose ring that holds the top part of the lens assembly in place.
Konica c35 repair light meter 1
As you see the cable already came off. Just replace it reassemble everything (this is easy, there is no hidden difficulty when doing so).
Good luck and good fun with this little shooter.

Some useful links:

  • Full color user manual from butkus
  • Matt Dentons review of the Konica C35. His description of the repair of his Konica C35 automatic also helped me to get the job done.
  • Janus Kohl Anderson also has some pictures that describe the disassembly and helped me a lot too.
  • peter rabbit shows a tough strip down of his Konica C35 in his flickr stream.

  • ebay search for

If this article was helpful or if you have any suggestions I would be very grateful if you just leave a short reply.

Kodacolor II

Ein Kollege, der in den Ruhestand gegangen ist, hat mir sein Fotolabor geschenkt. Mit dabei waren zwei schon lange abgelaufene Negativ-Filme. Ich möchte hier den Kodak Farbfilm Kodacolor II ASA 80 / 20 DIN, mit Ablaufdatum Juli 1977 vorstellen. Der Film bietet Platz für 20 Aufnahmen und kam in einer noch komplett verschlossenen Papp-Schachtel.

Kodacolor II Box
Kodacolor II Box
Kodacolor II Ablaufdatum Juli 1977
Kodacolor II Ablaufdatum Juli 1977. Der Film bietet Platz für 20 Aufnahmen. Die Empfindlichkeit ist mit ASA 80 / 20˚ DIN angegeben.
Kodacolor II Box Größenvergleich
Kodacolor II Box Größenvergleich.
Kodacolor II Patrone
Kodacolor II Patrone in schönem Zebra-Design.
Kodacolor II Filmdose und Beipackzettel
Kodacolor II Filmdose und Beipackzettel
Kodacolor II Patrone und Filmdose
Kodacolor II Patrone und Filmdose
Kodacolor II mit Leica-Schwanz
Kodacolor II mit Leica-Schwanz. Bei der Kamera handelt es sich jedoch um eine Zorki I, eine russische Leica-II-Kopie.

Eine Internet-Recherche ergab, dass solch alte Filme durchaus noch immer brauchbare Ergebnisse liefern, wenn die Empfindlichkeit entsprechend dem Alter angepasst wird. Einer Flickr-Diskussion folgend sollte der Film π·Daumen um eine Blende länger belichtet werden, für jedes Jahrzehnt seit dem Herstellungsdatum.

Ich gehe einfach davon aus, dass der Film ca. 1974 hergestellt wurde. Wie lange Kodak damals die Lagerzeiten angegeben hatte, weiß ich nicht, da 1974 aber mein Geburtsjahr ist, nehme ich dieses Datum auch aus persönlichen Gründen.

Dementsprechend müsste die Empfindlichkeit um knapp 4 Blenden geringer ausfallen als angegeben. Somit ergibt sich eine ISO-Empfindlichkeit von 5/8 oder ASA 5 / 8˚ DIN.

Bei solch einer geringen Empfindlichkeit empfiehlt es sich, den Film in einer Messsucherkamera zu belichten. Ich werde allerdings nicht die oben abgebildete Zorki 1 benutzen sondern meine Kiev IV, da diese ein Jupiter-3 Objektiv mit einer Anfangsöffnung von f 1,5 bietet. Auf der Zorki habe ich nur ein f 3,5 Objektiv.

Sobald der Film belichtet wurde, werde ich an dieser Stelle berichten.